From plant to oil

Origin & process

Nagarmotha is the rhizome of Cyperus scariosus, a sedge of damp ground in central India. The rhizomes and roots are dried, crushed and steam distilled into a thick, amber-brown oil valued for its dry, smoky woodiness and its tenacity.

Molecules that matter

• CypereneThe woody, earthy backbone of the oil
• CyperotundoneA major ketone in published analyses
• PatchoulenoneWoody, patchouli-like depth
• RotundoneThe peppery note, the same molecule found in black pepper

Our checks

What we check in every lot

• Odour on the strip against our reference over 24 hours
• Colour and viscosity
• Specific gravity and refractive index
• Clarity and solubility

Matching your grade

Nagarmotha varies with region and season. Tell us your application and send your current reference, and we will match a lot to it.

Nagarmotha is judged mainly by odour. Send us your reference and your application, and we will match a lot to it.

From plant to oil

Origin & process

Kapoor kachri is the aromatic rhizome of Hedychium spicatum, a ginger lily of the Himalayan slopes of Uttarakhand. The rhizomes are dried and steam distilled. The oil has a long history in Himalayan herbal tradition and in hair and skin oils.

Molecules that matter

• 7-epi-α-EudesmolThe dominant sesquiterpene alcohol in published analyses
• 1,8-CineoleThe camphor-fresh opening
• LinaloolA soft floral lift that varies by collection site

Our checks

What we check in every lot

• Cineole level, which sets how fresh the opening is
• Odour on the strip against our reference over 24 hours
• Specific gravity and refractive index
• Colour and clarity

Matching your grade

Kapoor Kachri varies with region and season. Tell us your application and send your current reference, and we will match a lot to it.

Composition varies with altitude and collection site, so always evaluate a sample in your own formula.

From plant to oil

Origin & process

Treemoss is a lichen, Evernia furfuracea, that grows on the bark of conifers. The dried lichen is extracted with solvent and concentrated into a dark, viscous resinoid. Small amounts fix and deepen a composition.

Molecules that matter

• Atranorin & chloroatranorinLichen compounds behind the mossy depth
• Atranol & chloroatranolRegulated by-products that must stay below the IFRA limit

Our checks

What we check in every lot

• Atranol and chloroatranol within the IFRA limit of 100 ppm
• Odour and colour against our reference
• Viscosity and solubility for your application

Grades we supply

• For general useStandard resinoid: dark, viscous and strongly fixative.
• For EU-bound cosmeticsAtranol and chloroatranol are prohibited in EU cosmetics under Regulation (EU) 2017/1410. Ask us for lot data before you buy.

Treemoss is restricted under IFRA Standards. Use it within the IFRA limit for your product category.

From plant to oil

Origin & process

Sandalwood oil is steam distilled from the heartwood and roots of mature Santalum album trees. Its quality is defined by santalol. ISO 3518 sets Z-α-santalol at 41–55% and Z-β-santalol at 16–24%.

Molecules that matter

• Z-α-Santalol41–55% under ISO 3518; the main constituent
• Z-β-Santalol16–24% under ISO 3518; considered the key odour carrier

Our checks

What we check in every lot

• Z-α- and Z-β-santalol by GC against ISO 3518
• Relative density 0.968–0.983, refractive index 1.503–1.509 and optical rotation −21° to −12°
• Screening for added synthetics, castor oil and other sandalwood species
• Odour on the strip against our reference over 24 hours

Grades we supply

• Graded by santalolZ-α-santalol and Z-β-santalol are stated for each lot, so you can compare offers like for like.

Sandalwood is the most adulterated oil on our list. Always buy against a stated santalol figure.

From plant to oil

Origin & process

Patchouli oil is steam distilled from the dried leaves of Pogostemon cablin. The still decides the grade. Iron stills give the classic dark oil. Stainless-steel stills give a pale, iron-free light oil with a cleaner odour. Both improve with age.

Molecules that matter

• PatchoulolPatchouli alcohol: the main constituent and the trade's grading measure
• α-Bulnesene & α-GuaieneSesquiterpenes that shape the woody body
• SeychelleneA woody, earthy facet
• NorpatchoulenolMinor, but key to the characteristic patchouli odour

Our checks

What we check in every lot

• Patchouli alcohol content by GC
• Colour and iron content, which separate light from dark
• Screening for gurjun balsam and cedarwood additions
• Odour on the strip against our reference over 24 hours

Grades we supply

• DarkClassic iron-still oil: darker, deeper and more camphoraceous.
• LightIron-free oil from stainless-steel stills: paler, cleaner and smoother.

Tell us the patchouli alcohol figure your formula needs and whether you want light or dark oil.

From plant to oil

Origin & process

Sugandh mantri is the rhizome of Homalomena aromatica, an aroid of the moist forests of Assam and the North-East. The steam-distilled oil is unusually rich in linalool, which gives it a rosewood-like freshness over an earthy base.

Molecules that matter

• LinaloolAround 60–66% in published analyses; the fresh, rosewood-like note
• Terpinen-4-olFresh and slightly spicy-woody
• δ-Cadinene & α-CadinolDry, woody base notes

Our checks

What we check in every lot

• Linalool content by GC
• Odour on the strip against our reference over 24 hours
• Specific gravity and refractive index
• Colour and clarity

Matching your grade

Sugandh Mantri varies with region and season. Tell us your application and send your current reference, and we will match a lot to it.

A useful natural source of linalool, with more depth than ho wood.

From plant to oil

Origin & process

Vetiver oil comes from the roots of Chrysopogon zizanioides. India produces two distinct types. Wild North Indian khus from Rajasthan, Uttar Pradesh, Haryana and Madhya Pradesh gives a laevorotatory oil, traditionally hydro-distilled in copper stills as ruh khus. Cultivated South Indian vetiver gives a dextrorotatory oil.

Molecules that matter

• KhusimolA main sesquiterpene alcohol of vetiver
• α- and β-VetivoneKetones behind the classic vetiver character
• KhusilalFound in North Indian khus; behind its laevorotation

Our checks

What we check in every lot

• Optical rotation, which tells North Indian khus from South Indian vetiver
• Odour on the strip against our reference over 24 hours
• Colour and viscosity
• Specific gravity and refractive index

Grades we supply

• North Indian khusWild roots, laevorotatory oil. Dense, earthy and prized for attars.
• South Indian vetiverCultivated roots, dextrorotatory oil. Earthy, woody and grounding.

The two types are priced and perform very differently. Tell us which one your formula is built on.